What to Look for in a Custom Suit
Purchasing a custom made suit is a significant long term investment. But how do you know whether or not you are buying a quality garment? Below, Alan David Custom Suits provides you with some telltale signs you should look for in a quality men’s custom suit.
Quality custom jackets have full canvas fronts, meaning there is a layer of canvas cloth inserted between the jacket’s fabric and its lining. If the jacket does not have a full canvas, then the jacket lapel as well as the remainder of the jacket is being held together by “fusing”, which is a kind of glue or some other form of adhesive. Fused garments will readily come apart during dry cleaning and normal wear and tear. Fused suits also have a tendency to bubble and pucker more quickly than suits that contain a full canvas front. Always ask your custom tailor whether or not his garments are fused or canvas. The canvas should also be a full piece of canvas that extends all the way down to the bottom of the jacket as opposed to just in the lapel area.
Working buttonholes are the hallmark of any great custom suit . Working buttonholes go as far back as the 17th Century, when contemporary surgeons decided to come up with a way to wear their suits during surgery. With the working buttonholes, these surgeons would simply unbutton their sleeves and perform the operation without having to remove their suits. Working buttonholes should be hand sewn, not machine made. Generally, the more handwork that goes into custom tailored suits, the better the chance that the entire garment will fit more comfortably and last longer. Finally, on the topic of buttons, you should make sure the suit buttons are horn, not plastic. Plastic buttons will crack and fall off in a hurry.
Hand or pick stitching can be found on jacket lapels, on the working buttonhole area of the sleeve, and on the inside of a coat along the lining, and is another good indication that you are handling a quality garment. Subtle pick stitching gives a suit a very distinguished look without appearing loud or ostentatious. Ideally, the stitches should be around one-sixteenth of an inch, anything less would be invisible.
Alan David Custom has been creating elegant and extremely comfortable custom suits since 1926. Experience the Alan David Custom difference for yourself, and see why we have gained a reputation as one of New York’s very best high end custom suit makers.