Custom Tailor Blog

Things to Look for When Selecting a Custom Tailor

Things to Look for When Selecting a Custom Tailor

Selecting a custom tailor can be a rigorous process. Listed below are some of the main traits your custom tailor should have. 1. Custom tailoring is an art, not a science. Custom tailoring must be learned by doing; a high level of craftsmanship cannot be taught in a classroom or via books. It may seem like a collection of simple measurements but it is so much more. The eye of the custom tailor is crucial to the fitting process. He must be able to recognize things that a tape measure is unable to gauge, such as a low right or left shoulder, body posture, the position of the arms, button stance and many other variables. Look for a tailor who has been in business for a long period of time. Inferior custom tailors tend to go out of business quickly due to the difficulty of the craft. Don’t be afraid to ask your prospective tailor about his background. 2. Do your homework. Research, research, and then do more research. Obtaining referrals is the most effective research you can do. Chances are if a custom tailor was successful fitting your colleague, family member or anybody else you trust, then he will be successful fitting you. If you do not have sources for referrals, check online reviews. Look carefully at not only the number of reviews but also the negative reviews. It is easy to get positive reviews, and some are probably fake. Focus on negative evaluations and see if you get the same vibe when interviewing your custom suit tailor. 3. Look around the showroom for other garments. If a... read more

Men’s Fall/Winter Fashion 2015

This Fall/Winter season comes with sophisticated, comfortable and stylish looks. The tailored wardrobe is getting an update with modernized double-breasted suits and checkered jackets. DOUBLE-BREASTED SUITS The double-breasted suits are back in style this season. This jacket makes any man looking elegant and somewhat sophisticated. Some say this suit looks preppy and old-school gangster. Thanks to celebrities this retro look came back and transformed into a modern formal and semi-formal must-have. This style of suit is not for everyday wear, it’s often worn as a corporate look so if you work in a bank, executive position or you have your own business, then it’s essential to wear a double-breasted suit. Tailoring is key in mastering the double-breasted trend.  CHECKERED JACKETS This season, some designers are suggesting a more accessible take on visual impact, swapping digital prints for subtle checks. The checkered plaid is an even pattern of plaid that forms checker-like boxes. Timeless and versatile, this pattern instantly adds interest to any outfit. At the office, checkered plaid that sit more on the conservative side offer a great way to stand out from the usual navy, black and grey suits.     BLUE TUXEDOS For years the midnight blue or navy tuxedo on the red carpet has been a growing trend even among many of Hollywood’s leading men, but this season we see even more examples than usual, and they were all extremely dapper. Undeniably the most popular trend of the season is blue, whether it’s midnight, navy, or royal. The midnight blue tuxedo first hit the scene in the 30s and has experienced a comeback as modern men are increasingly recognizing how well men... read more

Custom Overcoats For Fall

People always see your coat before they see your suit. If you’ve gone to the trouble of putting together the perfect outfit, you owe it to yourself to finish the look with the perfect coat. Either single or double-breasted, a classic or a bold color, a solid shade or a pattern, there’s always a coat to suit you. Navy goes with any suit in your wardrobe including black. Camel color will give you theultimate luxury look. A slightly cropped overcoat will elongate your silhouette. Like a gray suit, a gray overcoatis always in fashion. A double-breasted overcoat should be slim so it doesn’t billow when open. A pattern is a great complementto a neutral... read more

What Is The Meaning Of The Word Bespoke

You may have heard the word “bespoke” tossed around casually, perhaps in connection with suits and clothing, or maybe in reference to some kind of computer software or database. But what does the word actually mean, especially when it comes to custom wear? Tailors like to make a distinction between “bespoke” and “made-to-measure” suits. Making a “made-to-measure” suit entails taking a preexisting suit — one that already has pre-determined patterns, colors, and design motifs — and re-fitting it to comply with individual measurement requirements. “Bespoke,” of course, is the simple past form of the word “Bespeak.” Story goes that 17th-century tailors used to keep all their tailoring material on the premises of their shops or of their homes; when customers would walk in and ask for a suit to be specially made to fit their proportions, they could literally point at the stretch of fabric they wanted used for their item of clothing. Thus, the stretch of fabric selected by the customer, as well as the suit it would soon be molded into, were now “spoken for.” Alan David Custom Suits is proud of its role in authentically sustaining this tradition of the bespoke suit. We guarantee that each element of your Alan David Custom creation will be 100% spoken... read more

How to Care for Your Custom Suit

Alan David’s custom tailored suits are made from the finest fabrics and constructed by some of the best bespoke tailors in the industry. Alan David custom suits have gained a reputation for their ability to last without puckering, bubbling or shining. However, even high quality custom suits could benefit from some simple daily maintenance. By following the steps listed below, Alan David clients can easily prolong the life of their custom clothing. Many clients ask us how long a men’s custom suit should last. The answer to that question depends to a large degree on how often the suit is dry cleaned. Even though Alan David custom suits are made of the finest materials, when 500 degrees of heat hits a garment over and over, even the best construction will crumble and cause the entire suit to lose its shape. Moreover, dry cleaning machines can often press down on clothing at a less than optimal angle, distorting the shape of the suit. Our advice is that you avoid the dry cleaners as much as possible. Your custom suit should be dry cleaned only if it is dirty or if it begins to smell. Note that you should never apply an iron to the suit yourself—you are sure to see your own reflection in the suit the following day. All wool suits, custom or not, are prone to wrinkling. To smoothen your custom suit, hang the jacket on a regular wooden hanger, and hang the pants on woman’s skirt hanger, latching the cuffs on top and letting the waistband drop down toward the floor. Place the clothes in the bathroom... read more

The Basted Fitting

The Irrefutable Mark of True Custom Clothing At Alan David Custom every garment we produce includes a ‘basted fitting’ stage. The ‘basted-fitting’ is the most critical step in the creation of custom-made apparel. Without a basted-fitting no article of clothing can be correctly referred to as ‘custom’. At Alan David Custom, after a client’s measurements have been taken, a unique paper pattern is created. No short cuts are taken. It is from this pattern that the garment is carefully hand cut, assembled and temporarily hand stitched with white basting thread (see photo). At this point, the basted garment is ready for fitting. This is the step that dramatically sets us apart from all others. Trying on the garment now enables both the tailor and customer to perfect the fit and the style of your custom suit. The fact that the suit is simply ‘basted’ makes it possible for us to change the style as much or as little as necessary. For example, the client may elect to make the shoulders of the garment wider or narrower, raise or lower the armhole or make the silhouette fuller or slimmer. He may also choose to adjust the fit of the trousers by raising or lowering the rise or tapering the thigh or knee areas. This guarantees the consumer complete satisfaction with the final fit and appearance of his custom made suit. A word of caution, beware of others that claim to make custom clothing but in reality only make “made-to-measure” garments. What is the difference between a made-to-measure garment and a true custom garment? With a made-to-measure garment there is no... read more

The Process of Constructing a Custom Made Suit

There are a lot of companies in New York that say that they make custom suits. However, you will find very few actually make truly custom garments the way Alan David NYC does. Every custom tailored suit at Alan David NYC starts with a complete set of measurements. The expert fitters on staff will measure you completely. Once they have all of your measurements, they will create a pattern for a suit that will fit only you. Your pattern will be cut out of the fabric that you select, and will be hand sewn together. At this point, you will try on your suit. This is called a basted fitting, and allows minor adjustments to be made before your suit is permanently sewn together. This process is an extra step that allows you to let out the jacket or even the pants a little. You can even change the shape of the lapels. When your fitting is done, your suit will be sewn together by the expert tailors in Alan David’s New York workshop. All of their suits are made locally by skilled craftsmen. You can also order more suits to be made out of your own custom pattern. All you will have to do is pick out fabric, and then come in for your fitting. It is this old world process that makes Alan David NYC and their custom-made suits stand out from the competition. Come in and see for yourself why they have a reputation for... read more

Off-The-Rack Shirts Can’t Compare to the Custom Made from Alan David NYC

If you’ve never owned a custom tailored shirt before, you may not be aware of how well they fit. After all, most of us purchase our shirts off the rack at a department or clothing store. Off-the-rack shirts are designed to fit the average person. Whether for men or women, you get a choice of neck sizes, arm lengths, and maybe taper, but that’s all. You have to take the sizes and fabrics offered. You are left at the mercy of what the manufacturers think you need. Buying custom made shirts at Alan David NYC changes all of that. You can order custom shirts from Alan David NYC, and they will fit you perfectly. You will have comprehensive measurements taken, and your shirt will be made to fit you, and not some average stranger. You also get a choice of how you would like your shirt tapered, how long you want the tail, what kind of cuffs and collar you want, and you get to choose your fabric. With all of these selections, you will have a shirt that is one-of-a-kind and that fits you perfectly. If you’ve never had custom tailored shirts before, you should make your appointment today at Alan David... read more

Custom Tailored Shirts for Women Give You Choices in Your Wardrobe

Women’s shirts can be even more difficult to fit than men’s shirts when it comes to off the rack clothing. Many women’s shirts don’t give you a choice of measurements. They simply come in sizes such as small, medium, and large. As every woman knows, they don’t come in cookie-cutter sizes. That’s why in order to have truly well-fitting shirts, you need to order custom tailored shirts from Alan David NYC. Women’s shirts at Alan David NYC get the same treatment as men’s shirts. You will be measured thoroughly, and the expert fitters know exactly how a woman’s shirt should drape. They will make sure that the shirt made for you will fit perfectly, from arm length, to torso, and even the tail length that you specify. So if you like to wear your shirts tucked in, they will stay that way all day. You also get a choice of luxurious fabrics, collar and cuff styles, buttons, and any other details you can think of. Custom tailored shirts for women are truly a luxury, and yet are extremely affordable compared to off-the-rack... read more