Custom Tailor Blog

A Suit for Every Season: Style Advice for Men’s Color Choice

A Suit for Every Season: Style Advice for Men’s Color Choice

“A well-tied tie is the first serious step in life,” said Oscar Wilde. “Looking good isn’t self-importance; it’s self-respect,” said Charles Hix. These two acclaimed writers agreed that style is anything but superficial. On the contrary, a carefully designed and constructed suit can make an incredible difference in the way you impact those around you. A finely tailored custom suit is not style over substance but style introducing your substance.   How is that style defined, though? One of the primary elements of style that can be exhibited in a suit or other garment is seasonal color. It helps to look at color through two different standardized approaches.   Seasonal color approach #1: personal   Many men do not want to hear about the particular color that might fit a season, since the discussion of seasonal clothing is often framed in terms of women’s fashion. All clothing can be said to belong within certain seasonal categories, though – with some being more “autumn” or “spring” than others, etc. In fact, clothing can be assessed along seasonal lines in relationship to the wearer’s skin tone (not to be confused with skin color).   Here is how clothing is grouped in terms of seasonal complexion:   Spring – light-colored hair and eyes that aligns well with yellow-toned skin; Summer – blue-toned skin that forms a gentle contrast with eyes and hair; Autumn – dark hair with yellow-toned skin, resulting in strong contrast; Winter – hair and eyes that contrast strongly with blue-toned, often pale skin.   Seasonal color approach #1: broad   Part of the reason that men are often unconcerned... read more
How to De-Wrinkle Your Suit at Home, in 3 Steps

How to De-Wrinkle Your Suit at Home, in 3 Steps

You want your suit to look its best every time you wear it. It all starts with making sure your jacket is on an appropriately sized hanger. If the hanger is too big, it will push the shoulders out, and they will get more wrinkled. If the hanger is too small, then the shoulders will droop over the edges of the hanger and get wrinkled in that way. If the hanger is “just right,” then it provides protection to the shoulders and prevents wrinkling.   What else can you do to spruce up your suit? Let’s first talk about why drycleaners are problematic. Then we will describe a simple 3-step process to de-wrinkle your suit using steam at home, followed by scenarios in which a dry cleaner does make sense.   Dry Cleaning: not to be overused   It’s easy to get into a cycle that involves the significant use of dry cleaning as a measure to get the suit especially sharp and crisp for that important event. However, the dry cleaner is the biggest problem of a men’s suit store. You should not dry clean more than once every three or four months. The only time you should ever dry clean a suit is when it is dirty or it smells.   Why is the dry cleaner such an issue? It has to do with how the suit is pressed. Often, the dry cleaning staff will lay the suit down with the lapel in an imperfect position. When the lapel is pressed at that spot, the crease will be in the wrong place. You will have two creases,... read more
Considerations for a Shorter Man When Buying a Suit

Considerations for a Shorter Man When Buying a Suit

If you are a shorter gentleman, of 5’7” or below, it helps to know that there are some particular concerns related to height when you buy a custom suit. Let’s review advice that can help you when working with a tailor. First, though, let’s briefly look at why this is so important through research on height bias – which you can minimize by getting perfect-fitting clothing that makes you look taller.   Study shows the reality of height bias   It may sound bizarre to suggest that you could assign a value to every additional inch of a person’s height. However, that is exactly what can be done using the data from research published in the Journal of Applied Psychology in 2004. The landmark study found that every inch over average height corresponded to an additional $789 of annual income.   Psychologist Timothy A. Judge, Ph.D. (University of Florida) and management scholar Daniel M. Cable (University of North Carolina) together identified this connection between salary and height. The researchers integrated the findings of four previous studies conducted in the United Kingdom and United States, all of which tracked participants over many years. The analysis tracked the personal characteristics, occupations, and income levels of 8500 people from adolescence into adulthood. The pair also drew ideas and information from 45 additional studies that assessed the link between height and employment.   The study determined that a person who is 6’0″ makes almost $166,000 more throughout thirty years of work as a person who is 5’5″ (controlling for weight, age, and gender).   There could be multiple reasons for this height bias.... read more
How to Choose a Perfect Custom Suit: 12 Tips

How to Choose a Perfect Custom Suit: 12 Tips

Think a suit is just a suit? Not if you want to make an impression. And not if you want a suit that fits you.   Leave behind the idea that you can properly present yourself with off-the-rack or made-to-measure options. Here is some advice on purchasing a custom or bespoke suit.   1.) Be confident with your choice.   If you are undecided on whether to get a bespoke suit, consider that anything you pull off a rack will not take into account the way the human body is actually built. Notably, 70% of people have one arm that is a quarter-inch longer than the other (Business Insider); your suit should reflect the reality of your body’s dimensions if you want to look your best.   2.) Know what you want.   You don’t need to know exactly what you want, of course. Part of the shopping process is about increasing your exposure to different styles, patterns, and ideas. However, it does help to have a sense of the occasions to which you will want to wear the suit. Is it for job interviews or a wedding? The divergent expectations of formal occasions will benefit from a slightly modified approach.   3.) Simplify.   You do not need to get carried away with every characteristic of the suit. If this is your first foray into custom tailoring, go with navy, medium grey, charcoal, or another classic hue. Going with a standard color will make your suit more adaptable for various occasions – and to wear as independent items whenever that makes sense.   4.) Flatter your shape.  ... read more
Bespoke vs. Made-to-Measure

Bespoke vs. Made-to-Measure

The quality of a suit is heavily influenced by its material, style, and the way that it is tailored (the extent to which it is truly fitted to the individual). Related to that last element, let’s look at a few terms used to describe different approaches — particularly bespoke and made-to-measure (MTM).   Other suit descriptors: ready-to-wear, off-the-rack, and custom 5 distinctions between bespoke & made-to-measure Evolution of suit creation Ambiguity & lack of law Getting the right fit   Other suit descriptors: ready-to-wear, off-the-rack, and custom   Before we get into detail related to bespoke and made-to-measure, let’s look at three other ways that suits are described or categorized:   Ready-to-wear (RTW) – The designer comes up with cuts and styles for suits, offering ready-to-wear suits directly off the rack. “The development of the RTW suit was pioneered in the 1950s, when manufacturers segmented the male form into different sizes for mass production,” notes British tailoring blog Permanent Style. While this method is used for most of the suits available today, no effort is made to directly fit a certain individual.   Off-the-rack – This term is synonymous with ready-to-wear.   Custom – This category is essentially the opposite of the ready-to-wear or off-the-rack suit. It is modified to suit the wearer. This term is a relatively broad descriptor though, inclusive of both made-to-measure and bespoke. It refers to the ability to change anything to meet your style or measurement needs.   5 distinctions between bespoke & made-to-measure   Now that we have a broader sense of terms that are used to describe suits, let’s look at bespoke... read more
At a Glance: Why You’re Doing Yourself a Disservice with an Off the Rack Suit

At a Glance: Why You’re Doing Yourself a Disservice with an Off the Rack Suit

It’s safe to say that having at least one suit isn’t a luxury, but a necessity. Every man will find himself in a situation where he’s going to need a suit, no matter what line of work he’s in. This is especially true in New York City where appearances are just as important as who you know. Competition is the name of the game in New York. There are plenty of qualified people here with impressive resumes and networks. So, more is needed to stand apart. Never underestimate the value of signaling. And, what signals success better than looking good? Not much. Owning custom suits in NYC is one of the best things you can do for yourself professionally and personally. After all, in an increasingly social media dominated world, it’s telling that you’ll find many popular images tagged with the famous phrase “There is nothing like a well-tailored man in a well-tailored suit.” But, it’s important to talk about practicality, too. Yes, there will be a situation eventually where you’ll need to wear a suit. In fact, you might need multiple suits depending on your profession. The latter scenario may prompt you to be even more price conscious. After all, multiple suits don’t come cheap. You may be tempted to save some money by opting for off the rack suits. Plenty of men do, clearly, since it’s still an industry. Is it actually worth the perceived savings, though? Nothing can beat the look and fit of a custom-made suit. But, your wallet makes a pretty hard to ignore case. Here is why you’re doing yourself a disservice if... read more
Things to Look for When Selecting a Custom Tailor

Things to Look for When Selecting a Custom Tailor

Selecting a custom tailor can be a rigorous process. Listed below are some of the main traits your custom tailor should have. 1. Custom tailoring is an art, not a science. Custom tailoring must be learned by doing; a high level of craftsmanship cannot be taught in a classroom or via books. It may seem like a collection of simple measurements but it is so much more. The eye of the custom tailor is crucial to the fitting process. He must be able to recognize things that a tape measure is unable to gauge, such as a low right or left shoulder, body posture, the position of the arms, button stance and many other variables. Look for a tailor who has been in business for a long period of time. Inferior custom tailors tend to go out of business quickly due to the difficulty of the craft. Don’t be afraid to ask your prospective tailor about his background. 2. Do your homework. Research, research, and then do more research. Obtaining referrals is the most effective research you can do. Chances are if a custom tailor was successful fitting your colleague, family member or anybody else you trust, then he will be successful fitting you. If you do not have sources for referrals, check online reviews. Look carefully at not only the number of reviews but also the negative reviews. It is easy to get positive reviews, and some are probably fake. Focus on negative evaluations and see if you get the same vibe when interviewing your custom suit tailor. 3. Look around the showroom for other garments. If a... read more

Men’s Fall/Winter Fashion 2015

This Fall/Winter season comes with sophisticated, comfortable and stylish looks. The tailored wardrobe is getting an update with modernized double-breasted suits and checkered jackets. DOUBLE-BREASTED SUITS The double-breasted suits are back in style this season. This jacket makes any man looking elegant and somewhat sophisticated. Some say this suit looks preppy and old-school gangster. Thanks to celebrities this retro look came back and transformed into a modern formal and semi-formal must-have. This style of suit is not for everyday wear, it’s often worn as a corporate look so if you work in a bank, executive position or you have your own business, then it’s essential to wear a double-breasted suit. Tailoring is key in mastering the double-breasted trend.  CHECKERED JACKETS This season, some designers are suggesting a more accessible take on visual impact, swapping digital prints for subtle checks. The checkered plaid is an even pattern of plaid that forms checker-like boxes. Timeless and versatile, this pattern instantly adds interest to any outfit. At the office, checkered plaid that sit more on the conservative side offer a great way to stand out from the usual navy, black and grey suits.     BLUE TUXEDOS For years the midnight blue or navy tuxedo on the red carpet has been a growing trend even among many of Hollywood’s leading men, but this season we see even more examples than usual, and they were all extremely dapper. Undeniably the most popular trend of the season is blue, whether it’s midnight, navy, or royal. The midnight blue tuxedo first hit the scene in the 30s and has experienced a comeback as modern men are increasingly recognizing how well men... read more

Custom Overcoats For Fall

People always see your coat before they see your suit. If you’ve gone to the trouble of putting together the perfect outfit, you owe it to yourself to finish the look with the perfect coat. Either single or double-breasted, a classic or a bold color, a solid shade or a pattern, there’s always a coat to suit you. Navy goes with any suit in your wardrobe including black. Camel color will give you theultimate luxury look. A slightly cropped overcoat will elongate your silhouette. Like a gray suit, a gray overcoatis always in fashion. A double-breasted overcoat should be slim so it doesn’t billow when open. A pattern is a great complementto a neutral... read more